Monday, 24 July 2017

Golubinjak - grade corrections

HR
Ispravke i korekcije ocjena:
A-Zambezi
Orinoco: 7a
E-Hollywood
Pulp fiction: 7b
A Perfect world: 7a+
Rush 6c (P1+P2 7a))

Monday, 3 July 2017

Buzetski kanjon - new route

HR
Gianfranco Dušić izveo je FA u smjeru pod rednim brojem 4 (sektor Slap). Smjer se zove Finta di mona a prijedlog ocjene je 8b+. Zbog odlomljenog hvatišta Vaška mafija je uzdignuta na 8b. I Giant Yass je korigiran na 8a.
EN
Gianfranco Dušić did FA in sector Slap
(route number 4.). Name is Finta di mona and suggested grade is 8b+. After hold is broken route Vaška mafija is upgraded to 8b. looks that also Giant Yass is harder, so it is 8a probably.

Tuesday, 27 June 2017

Markezina Greda - Špurijus

HR
Smjer Špurijus (C/17) napokon je ispenjan: 6b, 35m.
EN
Route Špurijus (C/17) finally climbed: 6b, 35m.

Tuesday, 20 June 2017

Paklenica - Kozarice news

HR
Novi smjerovi u sektoru Kozarice:
7
.a Za Špecu 6b+/c 20 m, 15.a Projekt 8a? 32m 

Sektor Karenin - desno od Balibana : Marko & Marko 4a


EN

New routes in sector Kozarice7.a Za Špecu 6b+/c 20 m, 15.a Project 8a? 32m
Sektor
Karenin - right of  Baliban : Marko & Marko 4a



Monday, 12 June 2017

Markezina Greda - new routes

HR
Ivan Lisica popeo je novi smjer u sektoru Velika rupa (Markezina Greda). Smjer se nalazi između Balkan boyaGoginog. Ime mu je U boy, u boy! a predložena ocjena je 8a+. Boris Zokić izvodi FA projekta u Maloj rupi ( sektor D/II smjer broj 30.): Simba 7c+. Korekcija ocjene: El fanatico 8a.


EN
Ivan Lisica have climbed a new route in sector Velika rupa (Markezina Greda). New route is located between routes Balkan boy and Gogin. Route is now graded 8a+ and name is U boy, u boy! Boris Zokić did FA in ex project - sector D/II route nr. 30. New name Simba, grade 7c+.
Grade correction: El fanatico 8a.

Kalnik - Bugiman climbed

HR
Mihael Štefić popeo je projekt u sektoru Crazy rock imena Bugiman. Ocjena toga smjera sada je 8a. Fran Horvat izveo je prvo ponavljanje i predložio ocjenu 7c!?
(11m). Babaroga je korigirana na 7b.
EN
Mihael Štefić has climbed a project in sector Crazy rock. Route Bugiman (nr.14) now is graded 8a (11m). Fran Horvat did first repeat and suggested 7c !? Also Babaroga 
was corrected on 7b.

foto: Crazy rock

Devica climbed

HR
Smjer Devica u špilji Vranjača (Paklenica) ispenjan je slobodno.
Ocjena mu je 8b (40m).


EN
Route Devica in the Vranjača cave (Paklenica) was finaly
climbed and graded 8b (40m).



Picture: Igor Čorko in the route Devica 8b

Wednesday, 24 May 2017

Caution Pokojec

HR
Došlo je do odrona kamena u sektoru
B/2: smjerovi 17. i 18. Oprez!
EN
It was a rockfall in sector B/2:
routes 17. and 18. Caution!

Mošćenićka Draga - new routes

HR
Novi smjerovi opremaju se i u Mošćenićkoj Drazi. Gianfranco Dušić opremio je i popeo smjer kojise nalazi lijevo od smjera  Giant S. Novi smjer zove se Giant File , a ocjena mu je 8a. Dva nova smjera nalaze se i desno od smjera One hand show : prvi desno ocijenjen je sa 7a+, a slijedeći sa 6a+. Oba su visoka 10m. Četiri nova smjera opremljena su i u lijevom dijelu stijene. Nalaze se desno od smjera Bratac Jaglenac:
(korigirana skica)
a)Ramba Zamba 7a+ 22 m
b)Rucki Zucki 7a 25 m
c)Remmi Demmi 7a 25 m
d)P ?

EN
New routes are bolted in Mošćenićka Draga. Gianfranco Dušić have bolted a new line on the left of Giant S. New line is named Giant File and graded 8a. Some other new lines wait to be climbed. To the right of the route One hand show two new routes are bolted: first to the right is graded 7a+ and next one is 6a+. Both are 10 high. In the left part of the wall to the right of the route Bratac Jaglenac four new routes are bolted:
(corrections of the topo)
a)Ramba Zamba 7a+ 22 m
b)Rucki Zucki 7a 25 m
c)Remmi Demmi 7a 25 m
d)P ?

Monday, 22 May 2017

Istarske toplice B/1 new routes and corrections

HR
U sektoru B/1 nastalo je nekoliko novih smjerova, ali ima i korekcija starih. Sektor se zove MDMA.
Smjer pod rednim brojem 1. sa stare skice ne postoji a pravilan raspored je kao na priloženoj skici
(smjerovi obojani žuto su novi)
EN
There are bolted some new routes in sector B/1 (correct name of the sector is MDMA). Route nr. 1 from the book is existing no more, and here on the topo you have correct names and grades. New routes are in yellow.

1. Crevati dai Coglioni 6b+, 15m
2. Gringo Esquiador 6a, 15m
3. La Guida non e gelosa 5c, 15m
4. Ascendente scorpione 6b, 15m
5. Ascendente scorpione
    second pitch 5a, 30m
6. Wet dreams 6a, 15m
7. Sky cola 6c+, 16m
8. Sky cola effect / project, 30m
9. I Cavalieri del Lavoro 7c+, 27m
10. Dallas buyers club 7c, 28m
11. Panino con tutto 7c, 28m
12. Quadruvium 6b, 30m
13. Fernetita 7b, 25m
14. No xe per tutti 7c, 25m
15. Ghey team / project
16. Fino a qui tutto bene 8b+, 24m
17. ? / project
18. Positive vibrations 6a, 25m

Thanks to Gabriele Gorobey for updates !

Friday, 12 May 2017

Vela peša

HR
Simpatično penjalište ponad Rijeke sa kvalitetnim, laganijim smjerovima.
Pristup je cestom za Platak te nakon cca 2,9 km skrenuti lijevo na makadamski put ( oznaka za lovačka kuća) . Parkirati nakon cca 1,5 km u blizini male kapelice. Stijena je dobro vidljiva a do nje vodi široka staza “mulatiera”. 






EN
Climbing spot above Rijeka witth nice, easier routes. Approach is via road to Platak (from old Rijeka -Zagreb road). After 2,9 km turn left on white road, and park after another 1,5 km near small chappel. From parking lot a wide path is leading up to the wall.








Istarske toplice news

HR
U sektoru B1 Gabriele Gorobey napravio je prvi uspon u smjeru Panino con tutto : 7c . Kaže da je  za svaku preporuku. U istom sektoru Andrea Polo također je  popeo novi smjer - Noxe per tutti : 7c. Pravo ima smjera pod rednim brojem 6 u sektoru B/2 je B&B.

EN
In sector B/1 Gabriele Gorobey did FA in a route Panino con tutto: 7c. Andrea Polo bolted and climbed another new line - Noxe per tutti: 7c. Original name for route nr.6 in sector B/2 is  B&B.

foto: Riccardo Vella

Thursday, 4 May 2017

Chicola project climbed

HR                                                                                        
Rajko Zajc prema dostupnim podacima
izveo je  FA u projektu Chicola na penjalištu Osoje-Kanjon Čikole. Ocjena 7b+, 20m.
EN
Rajko Zajc did FA in project named Chicola on
climbing spot Osoje-Kanjon Čikole. Grade is 7b+,20m.

Tuesday, 2 May 2017

Digital Block - Istarske toplice

HR
Gabriele Gorobey slobodno je ponovio projekt pod nazivom Digital Block u sektoru B/2  u Istarskim toplicama. Ocjena: 8a+.
EN
Gabriele Gorobey did FA in  route Digital Block
(sector B/2 Istarske toplice) and graded 8a+. 

Monday, 24 April 2017

Omiš - new routes

HR
Novi smjerovi u sektoru Gospinica (skica), te u sektoru Stomorica:između smjerova Hobotnica i Kanava nastao je smjer Hat 6b 35m. Desno od sektora Visoke pole:
Windfacker (3,7a+) 30+20 m.
EN
New routes in sector Gospinica (see topo) and Stomorica. In this sector there is new route between routes Hobotnica and Kanava: Hat 6b , 35m. To the right of the sector Visoke pole is new route Windfacker (3,7a+) 30m+20m.

Monday, 3 April 2017

Pag - new route

HR
U sektoru B (Southeast) lijevo od smjera Dehidrirana ovca opremljen je novi smjer :
Bogi 5b+, 25m

EN
In Sector B (Southeast), new route was equipped and climbed.
 It is located left of nr.6 (Dehidrirana ovca). Name: Bogi 5b+, 25m
https://www.facebook.com/Benih3/videos/1290710014299201/

Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Omiš new sector in Naklice

HR
Novi sektor podno sela Naklice u Omišu: Parkirati
na velikom parkingu u centru Naklica pokraj
Crkve sv. Ante.Uputiti se prema groblju (istok), sa desne strane groblja nalaze se vrata od kojih počinje planinarski put (markinani), slijediti ga cca 10 min (sve po ravnome terenu), nakon jedinog spusta na markiranom putu treba skrenuti lijevo (sjever) odakle počinje malo lošiji put markiran kamenim hrpama, nastavit pješačiti još cca 5 min u pravcu sjevera.
Napomena: pripaziti na skretanju lijevo sa planinarskog puta prema penjalištu
Ukupno hoda: 15 min

1.Žaba samouboica 18m 6b
2.Malo đubre 18m 6c
3.Tisuću momaka 18m 7b+
4.Bim sport 18m 7b+
5.Zmajozilla 18m 7b+
6.Homo sapiens 18m 7c
7.Tom and Jerry 12m 7b+
8.Gatski san  12m 7b
9.Srp i čekić 12m 7b+
10.St Anger 12m 7c
11.Tranzicija  13m 7a
12.Osmi mart 13m 7a
13.Pajumba dum 14m 7a
14.Raumerovo zlato 14m 7b
15.Hubba bubba 14m 6c+
16.Čunga lunga 14m 6c
17.Šut 11m 6c
18.Aminokiseline 11m 7a+/b
19.Kor 11m 7a+
20. Izrod 14m 6a

EN
New very nice sector under Naklice village above Omiš. Parking near church in Naklice. Walk on the  right side of the graveyard ( small gate) and follow marked path for 10 mins. Further left on not so visible path ( stone marks) in the northern direction ( 5 mins from main path). Wall is in shade afternoon.



Monday, 20 February 2017

Trogir - two new routes

HR
U sektor C, desno od smjera Sila puta krak Ivica Beović opremio je dva nova smjera: Prvi desno Zapadna obala 6c , a slijedeći je Žnjan 7a.
zove se

EN
In sector C Ivica Beović was bolted two new routes right of the route Sila puta krak. First to the right is Zapadna obala 6c, and next one to the right is Žnjan 7a. Both are nice.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       
                                           

Zadvarje - new route

HR
U sektoru Potpoletnica Boris Čujić  opremio je, a Nikola Kramarić prvi popeo nov, odličan smjer Međuzemlje 8a, 
 

EN
In sector Potpoletnica right of the route Glas koncila , Boris Čujić bolted and Nikola Kramarić climbed new, very nice route Međuzemlje and graded 8a.

a) Međuzemlje 8a, 17m
b) Bubamara samoubojica ( projekt) 17m


Friday, 17 February 2017

Monday, 13 February 2017

Paklenica guidebook - corrections

Topos:
cover: on the map of Klanci A,  numbers 24 and 25
need to be mutually replaced
page 52: route nr.5 correct name Preserska naveza
page 54: route USB , correct grade is 7a+
page 80: Balkanac is 7c+
page 82: Fiftač is 23m
page 100: Babin zub is 8a+
                route nr. 19 is Didova ćela : 8a
page 161: route Nostalgija - pitches: 4a,4a,6a,6a,6a+,6a,6b,5a
page 192: route nr.1 FA ( S.Kragelj,P.Planina)
page 228: route Zimski cvijet, second pitch on topo is 5c
page 244: route nr. 2, correct name is Flex & Rex

Photos:
page30: route is USB 7a+
page 49: route is Copacabana 8a+
page 50: route is Pusi
page58: grade is 7c+
page 93: route is Ječmenac 7b+
page 161: route is Welcome


Thursday, 2 February 2017

Milna new routes

HR
Članovi SPK Pulfer opremili su tri nova smjera na lijevoj strani sektora B ( na fotografiji smjerovi su označeni zelenom bojom:
1. Gamba! Gamba! – around 7b (25m)2. Midnight Lightning – around 7a/+ (32m)3. Franka – around 6b – (32m)
Korekcije ocjena: Škura bura 7c, Mačić 7b+, Dalibor Gelo 7c

EN
Members of the Pulfer climbing club bolted three new routes on the left side of the sector B ( marked green on the topo):
1. Gamba! Gamba! – around 7b (25m)2. Midnight Lightning – around 7a/+ (32m)3. Franka – around 6b – (32m)
Grade corrections: 
 Škura bura 7c, Mačić 7b+, Dalibor Gelo 7c


Monday, 30 January 2017

Mimice 6 new routes

HR
U sektoru Jadran film dva su nova smjera desno od Maršala:  Zg80 6b+  te Metastaze 7a+ ( oba oko 30m). U sektoru Špilja( novo ime : Laboratorij) lijevo od smjera Money please nalazi se Baka Vera 7a a desno od Money please su četiri nova smjera. Prvi desno popeo je Nikola Kramarić: Gerijatrija 7c. Slijede: Chooky, Wooky te Sprašidon. Prva dva su projekti dok je i Sprašidona popeo Nikola Kramarić i predložio ocjenu 8a.. Smjerove su opremili Boris Čujić i Saša Kmezić. Luka Mudronja te Ivica Beović opremili su zadnja tri spomenuta. 15m desno od smjera Barba Vinko nalaze se dva nova projekta visine 10m.
EN
In sector Jadran film two new routes are bolted and climbed. They are right of the route Maršal: Zg80 is 6b+ and more right is Metastaze 7a+. In sector Špilja (new name: Laboratorij) left from the route Money please is Baka Vera 7a, and right of Money please four new routes are bolted. First to the right is climbed by Nikola Kramarić and graded 7c. Name is Gerijatrija.  Chooky, Wooky and Sprašidon follows. First two are  projects. Sprašidon is climbed by Nikola Kramarić and graded 8a. Last three routes are bolted by Luka Mudronja and Ivica Beović. The rest  by Boris Čujić and Saša Kmezić.
                                           
                                                    New routes marked green:



                                          sector Špilja

Wednesday, 4 January 2017

Kompanj correction

HR
Pravo ime smjera Sekirica na dubu ( Ghey team A/3 smjer br. 9) je Riding with Tori Black. Prvi ga je popeo Gabriele Gorobey.
EN
Real name for the route Sekirica na dubu ( Ghey team A/3 route nr. 9) is Riding with Tori Black. It is first climbed by Gabriele Gorobey.


Tuesday, 3 January 2017

Mimice - two projects climbed

HR
Slovenski penjač Zan Lovenjak izveo je prvi uspon u smjeru Mila mama. Ocjena je 8a+. Jernej Kruder popeo je drugi smjer s lijeve strane u sektoru Centrala (ex Baka Vera). Novo ime i ocjena: Gusar i Janezi 8a+.
EN
Slovenian climber Zan Lovenjak makes a  FA in route Mila mama. Suggested grade is : 8a+. Jernej Kruder climbed a project in sector Centrala (second from left, ex. Baka Vera). New name and grade: Gusar i Janezi 8a+.

Mimice sector Špilja

Vrulja - another project climbed

HR
Jernej Kruder popeo je projekt u sektoru A Špilja (nr.2 u vodiču). Ime smjera sada je : Shit happened a ocjena 8b 35 m.
EN
Jernej Kruder climbed a project in sector A Špilja ( nr.2 in guidebook). Route is named Shit happened and it is graded 8b 35m.

Vrulja sector Velika Špilja

Sunday, 1 January 2017

Kompanj - new routes

HR
U sektoru Krankenhaus desno od smjera If nalaze se dva nova smjera: Tazadn dan 6b+ i desno od njega Dope on dial 6b. 14m obje.

EN
Two new routes are bolted in sector Krankenhaus right of the route If:
 Tazadn dan 6b+ and right of this one is Dope on dial 6b. 14m both

Kamena vrata - new routes and repeats

HR
Rajko Zajc izveo je FA u smjeru Lopovska (sektor B): ocjena 7c+.
Lijevo od Way of Saxsony  postoje još četri
nova smjera : L-D
a)Glavić 5a, 25m
b)Žili mi ruka 6b, 12m
c)Bišprcavrit 5c, 10m
d)Čistač kamina je 5c, 20m.
Tu je i nova ocjena smjera Zvuči teško: 8a+
EN
Rajko Zajc did FA in route Lopovska (sectorB). Grade: 7c+. Left of Way of Saxony are four new routes: L to R
a)Glavić 5a, 25m
b)Žili mi ruka 6b, 12m
c)Bišprcavrit 5c, 10m
d)Čistač kamina je 5c, 20m.
New grade for the route Zvuči teško: 8a+.

Pazin B/1 corrections

1. Priroda i loše društvo 6c+ 10m
2. ? 4c 8m
3. ? 4c 8m
4. ? 5a 8m
5. ? 6b 10m
6. Ćurka 6a+ 10m
7. Last action hero 6a 9m
8. Taši 6a+ 9m
9. Crveni patuljak 6a+ 7m
10. Laganica 5b 7m
11. Teži 4a 5m
12. Laki 4b 5m
13. Lakši 4b 5m