Friday, 8 December 2017

Vrulja - Sponzorska plata 8c

HR
Martin Bergant opremio je a zatim i popeo smjer nr.1 u sektoru B ( Morska ploča ) koji je dosada bio penjiv samo na Top rope. Novo ime:  Sponzorska plata, 8c. Smjer je popeo i Jernej Kruder. Smjer Morska plošča podignut je na 7c (prije 7b ?!).
EN
Martin Bergant have bolted and later climbed (FA) route nr.1 in sector B ( Morska ploča). This line before was climbed only on Top rope. Now is bolted and new name is Sponzorska plata, and it is graded 8c. Route Morska plošča is upgraded to 7c  (7b before !?).

Tuesday, 14 November 2017

Viganj - new routes

HR
Austrijski penjači nastavljaju opremanje sektora Kapa (vodič Croatia str. 543) iznad Vignja na Pelješcu. Izgleda da se radi o odličnom sektoru za teže smjerove.

EN
Austrian climbers continued with development of sector Kapa above Viganj on Pelješac peninsula. It looks like very intresting and quality  sector with possibilities for very hard routes.




Wednesday, 25 October 2017

Nugla corrections

HR
Smjer pod rednim brojem 5 ( sektor Nova Nugla ) zove se Butterfly effect.
EN
Name of the route nr. 5 in sector Nova Nugla is Butterfly effect.


Tuesday, 24 October 2017

Kompanj - FA by Klemen Bečan

HR
Klemen Bečan popeo je smjer br. 11 u sektoru A/3 (Ghey team). Smjer je opremio Gianfranco Dušić a FA pripao je Bečanu.  Ime smjera je Hangover party a ocjena je 8c.  Mali grifovi, još manje stopinke, teška tranzicija, "veseli" gibovi, prazna ploča...
EN
Klemen Bečan did FA of the route nr 11. in sector A/3 (Ghey team). Route was bolted by Gianfranco Dušić. Name of the route is Hangover party and proposed grade is 8c.  Funny route with poor holds, even worse footholds, hard transition and funky moves, blind slab...

Pag - Stogaj - new routes

HR
Dva nova lakša smjera koji se nalaze u barijeri lijevo od tornja Stogaj. Autor je Jan Luft.
1. Frankennixe , 4c , 28m
2. Glitzermeer , 5b , 28m
3. ?
EN
Two new easier lines in the barrier left of the Stogaj tower. FA by Jan Luft.
1. Frankennixe , 4c , 28m
2. Glitzermeer , 5b , 28m
3. ?

Monday, 23 October 2017

Smrka - new warm up

HR
U sektoru A Boris Čujić popeo je smjer pod rednim brojem 4 (žuta linija). Smjer se zove Emilio Paganini Pakapakavela (FB profil autora smjera) a ocjena je 6c. Smjer A base in Brač je sada potvrđen na 7b+. Smjer Prends-moi là! je spušten na 8a+
EN
In sector A Boris Čujić climbed route nr.4. (yellow line). Name is Emilio Paganini Pakapakavela (FB profile of the author of the route). Grade is 6c. Route A base in Brač is now considered as 7b+. Route Prends-moi là! is downgraded to 8a+.

Monday, 16 October 2017

Vrbovsko - novo penjalište

HR
Nedavno otvoreno novo penjalište u Vrbovskom vrlo blizu izlaza sa autoceste. Idealno vrijeme je na jesen te u proljeće. Kraći dobro opremljeni smjerovi zahtijevaju snagu i tehniku.Pristup: Sa autoceste Rijeka-Zagreb izlazi se u Vrbovskom. Neposredno nakon izlaza skrenuti desno u pravcu Ogulina. Nakon 1 km oštro lijevo u selo Hambarište. Kod prve kuće sa desne strane odvaja se šumski put kojim nekoliko stotina metara do proširenja za parking. Dalje šumskim putem do kamenoloma te uskom stazom s lijeve strane kamenoloma strmo uzbrdo. Na vrhu padine nastaviti stazicom isprva lagano dolje a zatim po izohipsi do stijene( markirano) cca 15min.


EN
New climbing spot in Vrbovsko very close to the Zagreb-Rijeka highway. Shorter but very well equipped  routes needs power and technic. Best time for visit: autumn and spring.
Approach: From Rijeka_Zagreb highway exit at Vrbovsko. Turn right in the way to Ogulin. After 1 km sharp left and after 200m before first house on the right turn right on forrest road. Park before stone quarry and find a path on the left ( orange marks). Go uphill and further follow path slightly downhill and further straight to the first sector
(10-15 min).



                                           yellow is correct