Monday, 16 October 2017

Vrbovsko - novo penjalište

HR
Nedavno otvoreno novo penjalište u Vrbovskom vrlo blizu izlaza sa autoceste. Idealno vrijeme je na jesen te u proljeće. Kraći dobro opremljeni smjerovi zahtijevaju snagu i tehniku.Pristup: Sa autoceste Rijeka-Zagreb izlazi se u Vrbovskom. Neposredno nakon izlaza skrenuti desno u pravcu Ogulina. Nakon 1 km oštro lijevo u selo Hambarište. Kod prve kuće sa desne strane odvaja se šumski put kojim nekoliko stotina metara do proširenja za parking. Dalje šumskim putem do kamenoloma te uskom stazom s lijeve strane kamenoloma strmo uzbrdo. Na vrhu padine nastaviti stazicom isprva lagano dolje a zatim po izohipsi do stijene( markirano) cca 15min.


EN
New climbing spot in Vrbovsko very close to the Zagreb-Rijeka highway. Shorter but very well equipped  routes needs power and technic. Best time for visit: autumn and spring.
Approach: From Rijeka_Zagreb highway exit at Vrbovsko. Turn right in the way to Ogulin. After 1 km sharp left and after 200m before first house on the right turn right on forrest road. Park before stone quarry and find a path on the left ( orange marks). Go uphill and further follow path slightly downhill and further straight to the first sector
(10-15 min).



                                           yellow is correct

Monday, 9 October 2017

Kompanj - Balcony

HR
Talijanski penjači rade na opremanju dva nove sektora na lijevoj strani barijere u Kompanju.
Pristup:
Kao za penjalište Krkuž. Nakon prelaska pruge još nekoliko serpentina uzbrdo. Na zadnjem lijevom zavoju uz cestu se nalazi dalekovod. Ovdje parkirati i slijediti stazicu koja vodi uzbrdo. U jednom dijelu staza vodi u lijevo, a zatim vas vraća nazad točno na početak kamene police. Pomoću fiksirane užadi dolazimo do prvog sektora (Berto cave) a ispostavljena ferata dovodi nas dalje desno do sektora Balcony.
EN
Italian climbers work on developing of two new sectors far left in the barrier of Kompanj.
Approach:
Like for Krkuž climbing site, but continue on by car, over the railway and through a couple of turns uphill. At the last left turn there is a powerline beside the road. Park and follow it uphill. The path splits a bit to the left at some point and returns just before you reach the rocky ledge. The first sector is a small Berto,s cave , while more to the right , following the scary and exposed ferrata, you will reach the main sector Balcony, which winds all the way to the right.








Berto's cave
1. Litle adventure 6a+
2. Optional di luso 7b
3. Romboss 7b
4. Gestione del gesto 7c+
5. Check point 8a
6. Adesso o mai piú 6b+
7. Party boy 6a+
Balcony
1. In bianco sul bianco ?
2. Attriti coniguali 7c+?
3. Attriti coniguali L2 ?
4. Eccesso di entusiasmo ?
5. Uomo di poca fede 8a+?
6. Tentazioni proibite ?
7. Intrusioni terrose 8b?
8. Mappy new year 7c
9. Titty twister ?
10. Tanto le schivo ?
11. Red Silvia ?
12. Effeto metanolo 7c+?
13. Grebilling 7c?
14. Più no che si 7c?
15. Semiramide 7a+

Wednesday, 4 October 2017

Čiritež Sunset rock - new route

HR
Pojavio se novi smjer - Mailo , 7a. Nalazi se lijevo od smjera Nirvana. FA: Rafal Malinowski.
EN
There is new route - Mailo 7a. It is left of the route Nirvana. FA: Rafal Malinowski.

Brseč - Cut integral upgraded

HR
Smjer Cut do vrha ( sve tri dužine ) korigiran je na 7b+ ( 7b stara ocjena).
EN
Route Cut extended ( all three parts ) is upgraded to the 7b+ ( 7b earlier).

Istarske toplice- project climbed

HR
Klemen Bečan popeo je smjer u sektoru B/1 (radno ime Ghey team) i predložio je ocjenu 8b a ime je Babja smer.
EN
Klemen Bečan did FA in sector B/1 ( working name Ghey team). Grade is 8b and name is Babja smer

Monday, 4 September 2017

Paklenica-Spomin free climbed!

HR
Nevjerojatan uspon izveo je ove godine slovenac Luka Kranjc. Slobodno je ponovio znameniti Spomin (6+,A3)kojeg su prvi popeli također slovenci Silvo Karo, Franc Knez te Janez Jeglič. Luka je smjer ocijenio sa 8c, a uz najtežu dužinu još je jedna dužina s ocjenom 8b+, te dvije s ocjenom 8a+. Ostatak je do 7b+. Luki je trebalo 27 pokušaja (ulazaka u smjer u periodu od dvije godine).
tehnički smjer












EN
Slovenian climber Luka Kranjc did first free ascent in legendary aid route Spomin (6+,A3) first ascended by slovenians Silvo Karo, Franc Knez and Janez Jeglič. Spomin is now graded 8c. Beside crux pitch there is another one graded 8b+, two 8a+ and rest up to 7b+. Luka needed 27 trys in peroid of two years for this FA.



Luka Kranjc, Spomin, foto: Marko Prezelj

Vranjača - news

HR
Igor Čorko je s liste projekata skinuo još nekoliko smjerova. Penthouse ( smjer pod rednim brojem 2.) sada ima ocjenu 7c+/8a.  Dirty Sanchez (rb. 6) dobio je ocjenu 7c.
Igor je dodao i nekoliko kombinacija:

a) Deep, deep throat ( Deep throat+Mala smrt 4+14) 7c.
b) ? ( Golden shower+Mala smrt 5+14) 7c+.









EN
Igor Čorko climbed some more routes in that deep cave high on Velebit mountain: Penthouse (route nr.2 in the guidebook) is now graded 7c+/8a.
He was also climbed Dirty Sanchez which is graded 7c.
He added some good combinations:
a) Deep, deep throat
    (Deep throat+Mala smrt 4+14) 7c.
b) ? (Golden shower+Mala smrt 5+14) 7c+.